Review of Stumbling Over Eden

By Linet Arthur

Why would a slightly overweight, middle-aged bloke with a dodgy knee decide to undertake a perilous trek from the Moroccan mountains to the Saharan sand dunes? Perhaps a touch of whimsy and eccentricity but mainly because of the spirit of adventure.

This book opens with a map reminiscent of the Lord of the Rings, which traces the route Steve Bonham took from mountains to desert. Bonham’s journey was much more gruelling than might be suggested by an idle whim. Walking in scorching heat, within two days he finds himself descending a vertical rock without ropes in order to avoid adding an extra 2 to 3 hours to the day’s already lengthy walk. At one point he suffers from dehydration and is barely able to stagger into camp. He has to face down policemen and officials several times during the journey: none of them believes that he is simply taking a walk.

This book reminded me of Robert Louis Stevenson’s Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes, but it is much more fun. And whereas RLS hated his donkey, Modestine, and beat her cruelly, Steve Bonham loves the mules which accompany his journey: “If ever a creature was maligned with the word ‘stubborn’ it is a mule. Contemplative, patient, strong, surefooted: any of these words would be golden retriever called (inappropriately) Black, which appears on the first day like a guardian angel, accompanies him on much of the trek and protects him from wild dogs during the night. Less appealing is an amorous camel, who settled close to Steve’s sleeping mat one night. Conscious that he might be squashed if the camel rolled over in the night, Steve moves further away, but a few hours later he is “awoken by the malodorous breath of the same camel snoring into my ear”.

Steve Bonham is a psychologist who is interested in understanding people, including their history, culture and feelings. The book is studded with stories about Morocco, the Berbers and the ancient fortresses and cannons Steve passes along the way, alongside vivid descriptions of the changing terrain as the walk passes from rocky wilderness through the valley of Eden to the flat and unforgiving desert. Steve engages delightfully with his three companions on the walk, Moha, the young, fit and highly educated guide, Muhammad and Hassan, the mule drivers/cooks. From the early anxious moments of wondering how he will get on with these strangers, Steve describes how they develop into a tightknit team, leading to genuine sadness as they separate after reaching their destination. From his musings on life and poetry to the, at times, life-threatening perils of the walk, Steve’s easy writing style entertains the reader from the start. I strongly recommend this book.